Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2005)

(from soil that Mark Aubert describes as 60% rocks) Good full ruby. Hugely complex, somewhat exotic aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, blueberry, plum, mocha, minerals and woodsmoke. Suave, lush, thick and seamless, yet with plenty of inner-palate energy. Very concentrated flavor of creme de cassis, with notes of exotic spices and soy sauce. Finishes with big, chewy, sweet tannins and great breadth. From vines in their third leaf, cropped at just a half-ton an acre. I underestimated this wine when I tasted it from barrel a year ago.