Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2012)

Good bright red. Perfumed, rather cool aromas of cassis, menthol, fresh herbs, flowers, anise and fennel. Juicy, spicy and tight but not hard, with a pungent core of acidity and an impression of briary, earthy minerality giving the wine plenty of personality. This firmly tannic cabernet smells a bit raw in the way of a young barrel sample. Not the sun-baked fruit of 2009, noted assistant winemaker Crafton. It was hard to get superripeness in 2010.