Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Highly nuanced nose combines Indian spices, lees, truffle and strong soil tones; showed a distinct raspberry note with aeration. Explosive and powerful in the mouth; concentrated, focused and youthful. But tightly wound, and currently dominated by its structure. Doesn’t offer the urgent dark fruit flavors or generosity of the supernal ’85 and seems a bit less lively in the mouth. But still an uncommonly complex and classy rose.