Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Walnut, hazelnut, butterscotch and a Tokaji-like suggestion of damp stone on the yeasty nose. Brisk in texture, quite dry and distinctly mature, with a nut skin note and slightly sour-edged acidity. But concentrated and firmly structured. A classic dinner table bubbly. Bollinger fans appreciate the mature flavors of this Champagne, but my sample seemed a bit past its best.