Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Pale, green-tinged color. Incredible shiver-producing 99-point nose combines peach, lemon, iodine and steely, petrolly, slatey soil tones; I was reminded of Chevalier-Montrachet and great Mosel riesling. Full and creamy-smooth but extremely young. This brilliantly minerally wine seems to thicken and intensify after 10 or 15 seconds in the mouth, offering layer upon layer of soil tones. A superconcentrated Champagne that completely avoids the heaviness shown by some ’95s.