Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Complex nose melds nutmeg, smoke, toffee, white flowers and a gamey nuance. Big, rich, ripe and dense but without any excess weight. Intriguing flavors of acacia and clover honey, apple and spice. The wine’s honeyed aspect is leavened by bright acids, leaving the wine light on its feet. Dense, chewy Champagne, with a long, stony, palate-staining finish.