Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Very pale, bright color. Knockout nose of lemon, orange blossom, chalk, minerals and flowers offers great lift; pristine and vibrant. Wonderfully ripe, pure and perfumed in the mouth, with penetrating, sappy acidity contributing to the impression of structure and cut. Very intense lemon, lime, mineral and floral flavors complicated by an exotic suggestion of guava. A classic 1996 in its combination of full ripeness and bracing acidity. Palate-staining, very ripe aftertaste. This will be even better for a few years of additional bottle aging.