Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Rich amber-gold color. Slightly edgy, botrytized aromas of honey, vanilla, marmalade, caramel, mint and barley sugar. Thick and powerful, with terrific intensity of flavor and elevated alcohol. Suggestions of honey and cooked fruit. An atypically powerful style of Climens whose substantial dry extract gives it an almost solid impression. Not terribly sweet on the aftertaste (despite a relatively high 70 grams per liter residual sugar), which features hints of grapefruit and caramel and a slight alcoholic harshness. This will require many years of additional aging, and may yet achieve a better balance. But will it ever match the ’89 for sheer class?