Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)

(from cask) Prum calls this wine typically somewhat reserved vis-a-vis the Graacher Auslese but I apprehend a level of sheer flavor intensity that goes beyond the other wines here today, with apple, honey and spice supported by a volatile esterous note of botrytis and even a prickly Eiswein-like whiff of chili pepper. Impressive custardy richness in the mouth, yet ripe, refreshing citricity keeps the wine dynamic and salty minerality helps extend the finish. (In the interest of full disclosure I pass on Prum explanation that this is one of three or four comparable lots of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese which will be bottled separately. There will be gold capsule bottlings as well.) 2 stars.