Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)

Distilled and fresh red fruits, yeast and herbs in the nose. This seems drier than the Brucke with its stony density and its overlay of sweet green herbs over a complex melange of berries and pit fruits. As it opens in the glass, there is more than meets the nose and tongue at first. There is a positively chewy sense of extract and perhaps precisely for that reason less juice and sap in evidence than in the other Spatlesen today, but possibly ultimately more profundity. Nutty flavors and a soothing creaminess become evident, ameliorating the wine chewiness. The mineral component becomes deeper and more complex, at one moment salty, the next wet stone, the next smoky and fusel. 2 stars.