Germany’s Charming 2002 Vintage (Jan 2004)

Smells of redcurrant jelly, peach jam and fresh lemon. Brightly citric, honeyed and jammy in its ultra-ripe fruit concentration, and very slightly caramelized, this spreads over the palate and into every corner of the mouth. As with a number of wines here today, this has a decidedly saline, briny mineral expression, which complements the concentrated electric charge of acids. 2 stars.