Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

Full orange-bronze. Pours thick. Distinctly old-style aromas of dried apricot, nut oil, molasses, hazelnut, smoke, toffee, walnut and truffle. Thick and hugely sweet, with powerful acidity and an orange marmalade quality enlivening the creamy, saline apricot, nut and earth flavors. Plenty of supersweet honeyed botrytis here. (An earlier bottle showed honeyed botrytis tones and huge sweetness but was lower-toned and a bit more old-fashioned, with a higher perceptible level of volatile acidity; I scored this sample 92.)