In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1978 Latour, served from ex-château double magnums, is a wine that I have encountered several times over the years. Of course, provenance plays its part, likewise the large format, yet I remain unconvinced that this is a top-flight Latour. At least the bouquet is fresh with cedar and pencil lead aromas, commendably detailed considering the era in which it was born. The palate is fully mature, with firm, almost obdurate tannin. The 1978 cries out “old school Pauillac,” with a touch of brine emerging towards the finish that has a distinct rustic edge. It tries to impress more than confer enjoyment upon the drinker. Perhaps now just past its prime, since bottles a decade ago seemed to offer more. Tasted at the Académie du Vin dinner in Bordeaux.