Interpreting Chenin Blanc (Mar 2021)

There are so many things to praise in the 2018 Clos du Papillon: the suave, sumptuous texture, the high level of concentration, the very ripe apple and pear fruit meeting subtle pastry notes. It’s seductive while offering some welcome grip on the finish, but it just trips at the last hurdle, the 14.5% alcohol giving an unwelcome heat and somewhat curtailing the finish. Outstanding? Nearly but not quite this year.