Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura is youthfully inward and coy, wild herbs and crushed stone giving way to red currants and hints of exotic spice. It’s more lifted and cool-toned than anticipated; bright acids enliven the tart woodland berries within, and grippy tannins slowly saturate toward the close. This tapers off massively structured and with a subtle twang of heat, as the cheeks pucker with tension. Unfortunately, I don’t see the fruit of the 2017 Poggio alle Mura ever coming into balance with its structural components.