Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dark and brooding in its youthful state, offering up a seductive bouquet of dried cherries, currants, cloves and dusty flowers, like opening a cedar incense box lost many years ago. It coasts silken waves of textural red berries and liquid florals across a core of bright acids, becoming spicier and violet-tinged as it travels across the palate. The inner harmony and elegance achieved here is remarkable, as if there is not a hard edge in sight, yet it is structured and savory – almost salty, even. A full minute goes by and hints of licorice, pomegranate and cinnamon still linger on. As motivating and lively as this is today, it will require a number of years in the cellar to show its best. The 2016 Riserva is stunning from start to finish.