Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

With basil, gentian, juniper berry, coriander seed, white peach and lime, this is another Keller Riesling of its vintage whose ravishing aromatic display is distillate-like in its forcefulness and high-toned aura. The feel is flatteringly glossy, and the inner-mouth impression of implosive density as well as underlying stoniness prove entirely compatible with a sense of buoyancy and refreshingly bright, sheer juiciness. The mouth-shaking finish displays striking transparency to a kaleidoscopic array of herbal, floral, fruity and mineral elements. (As with the Hipping Grosses Gewächs in this collection, I feel it necessary to point out why I don’t quantify a “drinking window” that begins in some as yet far-off year. If you could just abstract from the near-impossibility of securing for yourself a single bottle of this wine, then you would feel no compunction after pulling the cork today, as the experience would be enormously gratifying and exciting.)