La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru sees no new oak and is aged instead in one and two-year-old 350-litre barrels. It has a gorgeous bouquet with lemon curd, nectarine and crushed rock aromas, very seductive even at this premature stage. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry, fresh and crisp with an almost graphite tinged finish. So much nervosité is coiled up in this Bâtard – it will give 20-30 years of drinking pleasure.