La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru, which was bottled earlier than the Champans, has an intense nose of black cherries, blueberry, seaweed and iodine. The palate continues that theme: saline on the entry, dense and grippy, and very nicely focused with a lively, lightly spiced finish. Real succulence here, and very good persistence; the elegance is only apparent after the wine is slipping down the throat.