La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru, matured with 25% whole bunch and 50% new oak, is cohesive and nuanced on the nose, offering gorgeous black fruit, briar, undergrowth and crushed stone aromas with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, a fine bead of acidity and superb salinity on the finish. This was the last Clos Saint-Denis that I encountered in five weeks of tasting in Burgundy, and – blow me down! – it might be one of the best.