La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes around three-quarters whole bunch fruit and is matured in one-third new oak. Despite the small reduction on the nose, there is clearly impressive intensity in this Grand Cru, but it is more backward and more broody than the 2018 tasted from barrel 12 months earlier. With time, there are traces of iodine and Japanese nori. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins that frame the pure blackberry and bilberry fruit, awash with superb salinity that gets the saliva flowing. Certainly a more intellectual Bonnes-Mares, it gains depth and density toward a finish that feels exceptionally long on the aftertaste. God created wine so that Christophe Roumier could make fermented grape juice like this.