Lail Vineyards J. Daniel Cuvée: 1997-2016 (May 2019)

Bright medium ruby. Wonderfully nuanced nose combines dark berries, black cherry, licorice and graphite minerality. Quite juicy and penetrating, even a bit youthfully tight, and much less thick than the 2003 and 2002 examples, but boasts terrific purity, definition and lift to its dark fruit, mineral and intriguing spice flavors. This really dances on the palate and stimulates the taste buds on the long, rising finish. The tannins are noble and horizontal, spreading out to saturate the palate. A very suave and highly concentrated wine from a tiny crop–and still short of its peak. But this wine is distinctly mellower today than an earlier sample was in my horizontal tasting of ’04s several years ago. (14.8% alcohol; 70% new oak)