Making the Case for New Zealand Reds (Mar 2021)

An alluring style that draws you in with its silken texture. It is pure, inviting and might be called sumptuous if not for an arrow-like line of acidity and whole-bunch-derived sappiness bringing up the rear, taking that ethereal texture and urging this wine forward. The finish is interminable, with satisfying savory, spicy characters persisting alongside woody herbs and broody black fruit. At 14.5% alcohol, there is the merest hint of heat, which is the only minor gripe in this near-perfect Central Pinot.