Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb delineation. The palate is still youthful with seamlessly integrated oak, fine tannins and gorgeous black fruit tinged with tobacco and smoke. This First Growth has an effortless and unexpectedly sumptuous quality, and it will continue to drink well for another 20 or 25 years. Tasted at Trinity restaurant in December 2018.