Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings. It has tangible coolness, not powerful, but displaying exquisite delineation. The palate is wonderfully balanced, more pliant than recent vintages, fresh and tensile, with a little more firmness on the finish compared to my previous encounter six years earlier. This is well worth seeking out, and it will give 20 to 30 years of pleasure.