Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Saturated dark red-ruby. Deep, powerful aromas of kirsch, menthol, licorice and dark chocolate, along with a faint musky nuance. Wonderfully rich and enveloping wine, with its distinctly dark fruit flavors accented by pepper and spices. At once dense and energetic owing to its sappy minerality and surprising back-end acidity, this wine is nonetheless a bit of a bruiser, as its fully ripe but serious mouth-clenching tannins are going to need time to resolve. But the wine’s impressive salty, mineral-driven persistence suggests that it will be long-lived. (13.5% alcohol; September 6 harvest; 35 h/h produced; 3.36 pH; d’Angerville attributed the unusually dark color of this wine to drought conditions in Volnay from mid-June to early August)