Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Vieux Château Certan was an early picking from August 31 after the Merlots reached 13% alcohol, then regarded as a high level. It shows modest brick on the rim. This vintage appears to have matured faster in recent years. Indeed, I have fonder memories of this in the noughties. Loose-knit red fruit, tea leaves, light touches of mint – it does improve and cohere with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. It’s a little compact and doesn’t “flow” like the best Right Banks in this vintage. It just cuts away a little abruptly without your leave. The bottle poured the previous October at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner was far superior! Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.