Multifarious 2017 Mosels, Part 1: Winningen to Wehlen (Jan 2020)

Dusty and yeasty notes do not interfere significantly with a transmission of fresh but ultra-concentrated pear and quince, laced with heliotrope and honeysuckle. A welcome influx of grapefruit serves for brightness and zest on an otherwise creamy as well as delicate palate, leading to a finish impeccably balanced in sweetness and vibrantly as well as lusciously persistent. (There is also an auctioned bottling of Sonnenuhr Auslese – A.P. #20 – which I have not tasted.)