Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny 1er Cru fulfills the promise it showed from barrel. It has a succinct bouquet, opening with fleeting scents of candied orange peel, lemon thyme and green apples, delivering almost “Leflaive-like” mineralité. The palate is beautifully balanced with real intensity and drive, linear in style, with just a faint fish oil note elevating that finish. Laurent Chérisey has crafted a superb Puligny from the higher contours of the appellation. Tasted at lunch at “Brat” restaurant in London.