Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2004 Charmes-Chambertin from Rousseau comes from an infamous vintage marred by vegetal notes, but this is one of the few cuvées that seems to have been spared. It opens nicely with Morello cherry and crushed strawberry scents, touches of orange pith and allspice. Nope – no greenness here. Chalky, edgy tannins and moderate depth frame the palate. It’s tart and does attenuate quite sharply toward the finish. But overall, this is perfectly fine. Tasted at Robert’s dinner in Beaune.