New Releases from Piedmont: The Stars Are Aligned (Oct 2011)

Admittedly I have some doubts about the 2004 Barolo Riserva Pianpolvere Soprano. In my opinion, Pianpolvere is one of the great vineyards not in Bussia or Monforte, but in all of Italy. Proprietor Rodolfo Migliorini appears to still be fine-tuning his approach here. The 2004 reveals intense, silky fruit, but is ultimately completely overwhelmed by the 100% new French oak barrels. The oak not only marks the aromas and flavors, but also gives he wine some early signs of oxidation. I still feel this bottling could be – and should be – one of the truly legendary Barolos, so my expecations are and will remain high for future releases.