New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

Light gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon pith, quince and green apple, with complicating notes of smoky minerals and chamomile. Dry, nervy and very tight, with slow-to-open citrus and orchard fruit flavors and complicating notes of white pepper and buttered toast. Boasts excellent intensity and clarity but shuts down hard on the finish, which features strong mineral and citrus zest qualities and a hint of smoky florality. I tasted this Champagne two other times this fall: one bottle behaved in a similar tart, citric fashion while the other showed more of the classic smoky, reduced character that I associate with young bottlings of Dom Perignon. As this is a fairly recent release, I would rather reserve judgment until next year.