New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(a 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, all from grand cru vineyards; L1112320111): Light, bright gold. Poached pear, flowers, honey and toasty lees on the smoky, spice-accented nose. Broad and juicy, offering open-knit orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by tangy acidity. Smooth, sappy and smoky on the finish, which shows excellent clarity and closing bite. Tighter than the outstanding 1996 version and missing just a bit of that wine’s heft.