New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly (Apr 2022)

The 2020 Coleraine is a wine that’s going to give and give over the long term with its elegant shape and huge substance. Winemaker Phil Brodie explained that this was a year where Merlot acted like Cabernet Sauvignon, offering depth and richness of tannins, and he wasn’t kidding: the power within the wine and the mass of gravelly tannins coat all sides of the palate. There’s intense yet slightly sweet black currant and blackberry fruit combined with cocoa and licorice. The lengthy finish is fragrantly spiced with flavors reminiscent of cinnamon, cocoa and black tea. While silken in the mouth, this conveys an overall impression of muscle and depth. Rather closed due to its youth, but it appears more impressive than the 2019 for its structure and smidgen of extra ripeness (14% in 2020 versus 13.5% in 2019). Those who prefer their classical clarets for freshness and line (e.g., 2010 over 2009 Bordeaux) may prefer the 2019 over the 2020, but the class of the 2020 can’t be denied.