New Zealand Whites: The Great Divide (Apr 2023)

The 2021 Chardonnay from Cloudy Bay is ripe and round while retaining that classic Marlburian tow of fine acid persistence that gives a sense of relentlessly pulling the wine. It’s pure and clean and there’s no hair out of place; the oak-derived nutty vanilla flavors sit in the background, where they ought, with bright and perky nectarine and lemon citrus to the fore. It’s all technically excellent but it doesn’t move me. Perhaps I’m asking too much when I desire a wine with soul.