New Zealand Whites: The Great Divide (Apr 2023)

The 2022 Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay offers tension, power and an unrelenting sense of moving forward as if your palate has been put on a travelator. This is its 30th anniversary vintage. Currently it’s closed and young with little aromatic generosity. There’s nevertheless purity and a real sense of density. The richness is there but it’s held within a brace of tension, ensuring precision and focus. After a couple of days, it loosens up a little so if you’re thinking of opening it early, which I don’t recommend, decanting may be your friend. I probably prefer the 2021 for its additional austerity but that may be me being subjective rather than objective.