Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is the one cuvée that takes the longest to open in the glass. Like a door ajar, it lets you peek inside but not enter: mineral-rich dark berry fruit, hints of Earl Grey and forest floor. This is well-defined with discrete use of oak once more. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. There is an unerring symmetry to this Clos des Ducs, quite structured and less concentrated than some of its peers. It is more sapid towards the finish, with a persistent pepperiness on the aftertaste. Excellent.