Piedmont: Top Values and Everyday Gems (Feb 2017)

Super-ripe black cherries, plums, spices, menthol and licorice are front and center in Luciano Sandrone’s 2015 Dolcetto d’Alba. This is an especially ripe, flamboyant style, even for the year. Readers should plan on giving the 2015 quite a bit of air, as it is quite reduced, even by the standards of Dolcetto, a grape than naturally tends to be reductive. With some aeration, the wine cleans up and flavors gain both brightness and overall pop.