Plundering Burgundy Past (Jul 2018)

The 1990 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes 1er Cru is an absolutely sensational wine that boasts astonishing detail on the nose, unbelievably fresh considering the warmth of the growing season, the stem addition completely subsumed. Hints of sage and oregano are discretely embroidered into the black fruit, later some gorgeous loam-like aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, perfect acidity and with just a pinch of black pepper seasoning the black fruit. This is not just well balanced, but conveys an unerring sense of symmetry that leaves you awestruck. With aeration I notice more fruit and just a hint of balsamic towards the finish. Brilliant. Tasted at Tour d’Argent restaurant in Paris.