Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonnerre: 1985-2015 (Aug 2019)

Bright, pale yellow-silver; remarkably light for a 19-year-old white wine from anywhere! Aromas of lime and lemon zest, pear, crushed rock and marrowy minerality display captivating purity. At once supple and penetrating, beginning with an energetic lemony tightness but eventually expanding in the middle palate and spreading out on the back end. This compellingly fresh, still-youthful midweight is not at all a thick style of Chablis–nor does it possess the 2002’s sweetness of fruit–but it’s brisk, precise and bone-dry, with urgent wet-stone salinity and sneaky rising length. Yet another superb and uncompromising example of this classically austere vintage for Chablis.