Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(18.5 hectoliters per hectare; destemmed): Good dark red. Less showy initially than the young-vines cuvée but ultimately far more complex, offering subtle scents of black raspberry, currant, graphite, smoke, soil and spices. Airy and elegant but at the same time very intensely flavored and subtly thick, with its dark berry, smoke and mineral flavors nicely framed by well-integrated acidity. The very long, slowly building finish features a copacetic combination of sweetness and ripe tannins. Made from 60-year-old vines, this wine is lower in octane and better balanced than the Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru; winemaker Nadine Gublin noted that the clone the estate used to replant its Chambertin vines routinely gives more alcohol.