Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from 20- and 70-year-old vines planted in a rocky site with a very thin layer of topsoil; this wine was among the first 2016s to finish its malolactic fermentation, but not until July): Bright, dark red with ruby highlights. Very showy nose offers scents of black raspberry, bitter chocolate, flowers and penetrating minerality. Less gassy than the last couple of samples but still quite youthfully taut, conveying excellent sappy energy and lift to its thick dark berry and mineral flavors. Finishes with firm but ripe tannins and rising, palate-staining persistence. There was no frost here, noted Charles van Canneyt, but even the young vines did not produce a big crop.