Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.7% alcohol, after multiple tiny additions of sugar totaling just 0.2% to prolong the fermentation, according to Anne Gros; aged in 70% new oak): Medium red. Fresh, pure but reticent aromas of raspberry, spices and earth. Very ripe but initially reserved, hinting at wild raspberry, soil and dark chocolate. Aeration brought building inner-mouth perfume, revealing the wine’s superb sappy depth and spicy lift. Not demonstrative today but one can sense the serious underlying structure of this wine, not to mention its rare combination of density and finesse of texture. Finishes with sexy sweetness, tangy tannins and terrific length.