Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(entirely destemmed; made from the younger vines in the clos, which are now 20 years old; 35 hectoliters per hectare produced): Healthy dark red. Ripe, fresh scents of kirsch and licorice. At once laid-back and penetrating, offering good spicy intensity to its flavors of dark cherry, licorice, minerals and violet. Offers lovely inner-mouth lift and thickness of texture, then turns a bit clenched and tannic on the back end without going hard. This wine is carrying 14% alcohol without chaptalization but only moderate acidity.