Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(there was a lot of frost here, but the Boillots’ two parcels of very old vines in Grand Maupertui suffered less than vines at the bottom of the clos; 25 hectoliters per hectare produced; 75% new oak): Good dark red; more deeply colored than Boillot’s estate wines from the Côte de Beaune. Lovely perfumed lift to the aromas of red cherry, licorice, spices and flowers. Then fat and thick in the mouth, with dark berry and black cherry flavors energized by salty minerality. Lovely inner-palate tension and flavor complexity here. The tannins are firm but not dusty or dry on the long, rising finish. Boillot does a fermentation intégrale for most of his Côte de Nuits wines, vinifying them in barrels, then pressing them and returning them to barrel. This technique makes for gentler extraction and results in an earlier integration of fruit and oak elements, typically yielding rounder, more voluminous wines with silkier tannins but also more structure without dryness.