Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol; vinified with 60% whole clusters): Bright dark red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, minerals and musky earth. Wonderfully silky, plush and fine-grained, with its atypical fat nicely leavened by smoky, crunchy minerality. I find this wonderfully rich Les Amoureuses gentler in the early going than the Bonnes-Mares but it may need just as long to reach its peak. This wine sports a pH of 3.76 and just 2.7 grams per liter of acidity, which suggests that the wine’s verve comes from the site’s light chalky soil and vinification with a significant proportion of the stems.