Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(these vines range in age from 50 to 105 years, according to Dugat; made with 60% whole clusters and aged in 50% new oak): Initially reticent aromas of boysenberry, violet, licorice and espresso show subtle complexity and a stronger torrefaction quality with aeration. Plush in texture but less expressive and harmonious today than the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes. The purple fruit and licorice flavors are nicely lifted by herbal and spicy nuances from the stems, which contribute elegance and lift. Very easily digestible and not at all hard, but the building tannins will nonetheless require some patience. (Incidentally, Dugat was not ready to present his Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles Vieilles Vignes, as the wine finished its malo very late and had just been racked.)