Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(38 hectoliters per hectare produced; vinified with 85% whole clusters, down from a normal 100%; aging in 50% new oak, vs. 33% for the premier cru and village wine): Healthy dark red. Captivating perfume of red berries, spices and flowers lifted by a sexy herbal element from the stems. Silky, dense and concentrated, showing terrific precision and a sappy personality to its complex flavors of red berries, brown spices, underbrush and dried flowers. Lovely fruit intensity here. Very firm and built to age but even today there is nothing hard about this grand cru. Finishes very long and sweet, with refined tannins. I’m not sure that this wine will ever go through an extended sullen phase in bottle.