Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Full dark red. Slightly darker and more reticent on the nose than La Tâche, dominated in the early going by black raspberry, cherry, spices, crushed rock and coffee. Enters the mouth like liquid velvet, expanding to show an incredible 3-D texture and great depth to its soil-inflected flavors of flowers, spices, mocha, underbrush and savory minerality. At the first sip, this utterly seamless, spherical yet rather youthfully impenetrable wine saturates the entire palate like a thunderstorm breaking out across a wide front. Today I don’t find the typical early vegetal nuances of this wine, perhaps owing to the total ripeness of the vintage. Still an infant, this wine should easily evolve positively for three decades or more. When I spit this wine, I thought I still had it in my mouth, such is its impression of solidity.