Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

A powerful, high-toned nose suggests plum distillate, strongly intimating the pit piquancy that emerges on a glossy, glycerol-rich, expansive palate. Buddleia and rosemary flower also waft from the glass and then add inner-mouth allure. There is a remarkable sense of sap and energy to the long, gripping, piquant yet refreshingly limey, juicy finish. Here is another instance where it’s impossible for me to avoid imagining that an extra percentage of alcohol would have driven this highly impressive performance into overly spirituous and outright bitter territory. This year, Keller employed some of his newly acquired, ancient Mosel fuders for fermenting and aging his Morstein, and not surprisingly, he said, “I like the fit.”